Feed the Soil

humus maker

nitrogen %N

phosphates %P2O5

potash %K2O

application rate

notes
bark
1/4
*
*
1in layer over soil surface - dig in or use as a surface mulch

bark chippings (polverised, shredded, granular etc) are now offered as a peat subsitute. Very useful for mulching because bark is a dense material, but less useful for digging in.
bio friendly humus
1/2
*
*
1/4lb per yd of seed drill before sowing or 1/4lb to 2lb under roots before planting

 
compost
1.5
2
1/2
1 bucket per sq yd - dig in or use as a surface mulch

 
farmyard manure
1/2
1/4
1/2
1 bucket per sq yd - dig in or use as a surface mulch

Before use, stack it under some form of roofing, cover with several inches of soil and leave to decay. It is ready when the smell has disappeared and the straw is no longer recognisable.
green manure
2
1/4
3/4
dig in during summer/autumn

green manure is a crop grown for digging and providing humus for chalky or sandy soil. Apply a fertiliser and sow rape or mustard in April to July. Dig in 2 months after germination.
leaf mould
1/2
1/4
1/4
1 bucket per sq yd - dig in or use as a surface mulch

Collect leaves in Autumn (oak and beech are the favourites) and build a heap - 6inch layers of leaves in between 1 inch layers of soil. Composting is low - leave for a year.
mushroom compost
1/2
1/4
1/2
1 bucket per sq yd - dig in before planting

Used to be stable manure plus soil, straw and chalk - nowadays it is a composted straw. A useful material for enriching sandy soil. Do not use if you intend to use lime haters.
peat
3/4
*
*
use in planting mixture or as a surface mulch

There are two types. Sedge peat is a little richer in nitrogen and breaks down more quickly in the soil. Sphagnum peat holds more air and water - use when planting lime haters.
poultry manure

sawdust

seaweed

stable manure

straw

Preparing the Ground:

Autumn is the time to think about preparing the ground for next season. Digging is best done in the autumn as it gives time for the soil to be broken down by frost. If you dig in spring and your soil is not fine enough for seed sowing you can add a layer of home made compost, or commercial peat free compost, over the surface to make a good seed bed.   If you are growing vegetables for the first time, on an old lawn or ground that has not been cultivated, then the ground will need to be dug. A lot of gardeners dig all of their plots, and apply large amounts of manure, every year. It is not always necessary to do either and some thought about what is to be grown will determine how a plot is prepared.   If you have never done any digging before it is important to know how to "double dig" a bed. It does not mean doing it twice! If the bed is sited on grass start by removing the turf. You only need to take off the top inch or so. If there is enough you can make a 'turf stack' by piling the turf grass side down. The grass then rots to produce a fine soil which can be used to make a potting compost.
         

You can also just dig in the turf placing it grass side down in the trench and breaking up the clods.

Start digging by making a trench to the full depth of the spade across the width of the bed. Place the soil in a pile for use later. Next, loosen the soil in the bottom of the trench with a garden fork, this breaks up the ground and aids drainage. Move back and turn over the next row of soil placing it into the empty trench, then fork the bottom of the new trench. Continue till the last row when you should have an empty trench which has been forked. Place the soil you saved from the first row into the last trench.

  

The next step is to knock down, or break up, the clods especially if they have the appearance of bricks! Try not to compact the soil or press it down too much. You will need to add some "organic matter" when you dig a bed for the first time. Organic gardeners will have a supply of home made compost available but if you are new to gardening you might not have a compost bin, start one as soon as you can!

In place of garden compost you can use one of the many commercial composts available but if you want to be organic

  

then you should avoid all peat based products. Look for the Soil Association symbol on the bag, it ensures that the material is organic.

Do not be tempted to fill the trench with compost and bury under soil as you need fine soil for seeds in the top couple of inches. Many organic gardeners spread organic matter on the soil after digging and leave it to overwinter. This is called 'top dressing' and helps to prevent damage to the soil structure due to compaction from heavy rain. It also gets the compost where it is most needed, in the top couple of inches. If you are starting in Spring you will need to knock down your newly dug soil and then rake in some compost.
         

How much you use will depend on your soil, the recommendations given by the supplier and what you are going to grow in the bed.

Do not be tempted to dig in loads of manure or to spread lime on the bed as further treatment will depend on what you intend to grow. The table below offers some suggestions for soil treatments but it really does depend on your soil and what has been there before. If the bed is in an old lawn and you have dug in the old turf, the soil should be relatively fertile.
Crop Suggested soil treatment
Potatoes, tomatoes, leeks Apply manure in spring. DO NOT lime!
Summer cabbage, winter brassicas, spring cabbage, other brassicas Apply compost in spring/summer. Apply lime if needed (check pH first)
Winter brassicas Apply leaf mould
Winter tares (green manure) Apply lime if needed (check pH first)
Root crops Apply leaf mould in spring